Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Baghdad's Grand Medieval Bazaars

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I've received several e-mails asking if I'll be presenting at the upcoming annual conference of the National Council for the Social Studies. The answer is yes, and I'll be presenting with the wonderful author and educator, Joan Brodsky Schur. Our workshop, "Baghdad's Grand Medieval Bazaars: How They Influenced Renaissance Art" will be presented in Room 706 of the Colorado Convention Center of Denver on Friday, November 12. We'll begin at 10:15, and end at 11:15. If you're interested in seeing the link between the magnificent markets of medieval Baghdad, and what I call the "stuff" paintings of the Renaissance, stop by! Joan will cover the Baghdad side, I'll be discussing the Renaissance desire for luxury goods from the Islamic markets, and how these trade items appeared as status indicators in Renaissance paintings, both secular and religious. Have you ever noticed the fake "Arabic" script in the Virgin Mary's halo? How about in the trim of the magnificent burial shrouds of some of Europe's most important religious leaders? Sound intriguing?Come to our workshop next Friday. If you can't make it, here are two terrific books to help you explore this subject: "Bazaar to Piazza: Islamic Trade and Italian Art, 1300-1600," by Rosamond E. Mack. Also, "The Renaissance Bazaar: From the Silk Road to Michelangelo," by Jerry Brotton. Two terrific researchers!

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Links Between the Renaissance and Islamic Scholarship

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World History teachers, Humanities teachers, Art teachers, or anyone interested in expanding their intellectual horizons, check out Muslimheritage.com. This web site has teaching materials and articles on a wide range of subjects, such as "The Muslim Carpet and the Origin of Carpetry," "The Coffee Route from Yemen to London, 10th - 17th Centuries," "Ottoman Palace Cuisine," and "Women's Contributions to Classical Islamic Civilization." Don't panic when you see photos of lecturers. Scroll down and you'll find lots of other things you can use in the classroom! And check out the painting of Henry, the "Big, hairy king," showing off his carpets.

Reading at Santa Fe bookstore

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kdareading1cropped It was a beautiful summer evening down on the plaza in Santa Fe where I did a reading from my novel manuscript, “In the Shadow of the Tombs.” The event was part of the Dar al Islam Teachers’ Institute on Understanding and Teaching About Islam. This teacher-training program takes place every summer in the hills of Abiquiu (with occasional trips to Santa Fe thrown in.) The reading took place at the beautiful new location of Collected Works Bookstore, an awesome place with lots of space, tons of books, and great food. It’s one block from the historic plaza. Add the stars in the sky when we walked out the door that night, and you can see that we had an evening of magic.

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Sunday, May 23, 2010

Baffled by events in Bangkok? Read this

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Wondering what that scene in Bangkok was really all about?

Here is a link to an excellent article that explains it in clear language. While reading it, I was struck by the similarities to what had happened in Iran when I was there in 1978-'79. This is truly a class battle as much as anything else, as author Jeffrey Race points out.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Deja vu

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Received an interesting e-mail from my son, Jason, today. He was ten years old when we lived in Iran during the Islamic Revolution. Now he's living in Bangkok, Thailand, (at Klong [canal] 10) and sending me messages that are eerily similar to the low-tech letters I sent home to my mother when living in Iran during the 1979 Islamic Revolution.

Here's what Jason wrote today:

Well, it's begun! The tanks and soldiers moved into the Red Shirt camps this morning.

Now the Reds have taken over Future Park Mall and shut down Rangsit Nakorn Nayok Road, from Future Park up until Klong 10. That road is the one from Future Park up to Klong 3, where we have our "starter house," the town house.

Jedi's school has been shut down. Dtawm picked him up and took him home an hour ago. I'm still at Thammasart now. It's 11:26 am. The principal will probably shut this place down too.

I'll let you know as things happen!

Jedi is my six-year-old grandson. Dtawm is Jason's wife. It all brings back memories of the time I received a phone call from Jason's elementary school in Isfahan, telling me that the riots were dangerously close to their school, and I was to get there immediately. My husband and I drove through the city, taking detours when we encountered soldiers, tanks, and pro-Khomeini rioters. We finally made it to the school, only to discover that Jason was nowhere to be found! (The teachers assumed we had already picked him up, and they were evacuating when we arrived.) We panicked. Then we panicked more. Then I recalled that I had once pointed out an apartment to Jason-- a place where one of our fellow professors lived, across from the school. I had told Jason to run there if things got bad. Sure enough, we found him there, eating Halloween candy, and riding a bike around the courtyard with their daughter, who had just had a party. That's when my nerves cracked, and I broke down crying. Must have looked like a nutcase!

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Newspaper Headlines: Tehran & Bangkok

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Boy, my family sure can pick the cities to live in.

"Tehran Burning" Newsweek, Nov. 20, 1978








"Bangkok Burning" Bangkok Post, today, May 16, 2010

Saturday, May 15, 2010

What goes around, comes around

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Well, now I know how my mother felt when I was in Tehran during the '79 revolution. I am currently watching events in Bangkok, as the Red Shirts exchange gunfire with the army. My son, daughter-in-law, and two grandchildren live in Bangkok. In an interesting twist, they're encountering road blocks, just like we did in Iran when Jason was ten years old. You'd turn one corner, and there would be tanks and soldiers. My job was to put a photo of the Shah in our dashboard window to indicate where our political sympathies "really" were. Most of the time, they'd see the photo and send us through without questioning us. Then around the next corner, we'd see a mob without uniforms. They too, would be dragging people out of their cars and beating them, if they had the "wrong" photo on the car window. So my job was to ditch the photo of the Shah, and put up the photo of Ayatollah Khomeini. Obviously I did a good job of it, because I'm still sitting here, talking about it. But now, Jason, thirty years later, doesn't want to risk trying to flee Bangkok, because one moment they encounter a Red Shirt mob, the next, the army, and the next, a Yellow Shirt mob. Looks like history really is cyclical. At least Jason is experienced, and has seen it all before. (photo is from The Guardian newspaper)

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Windows of the Soul—A Great Book

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Windows of the SoulMy dear friend, Alexandra Avakian has been a National Geographic photographer for years. She has dodged bullets to get photos, as well as riding UN vehicles into dangerous regions in order to get where the action is. At one point, while photographing refugees rushing onto an evacuation ship, she was knocked overboard, all in the name of “getting that shot.” Alex’s book, Windows to the Soul: My Journeys in the Muslim World was included on Oprah’s “Season’s Best Gift Books” list.  If you’re looking for a book with some outstanding photos, this would be a great one for you. Or if you just want to browse through some photos that are at times, poignant, at times, disturbing, go to the National Geo blog for this book. To the right side of the blog, you can click on “See more images from this book.” Enjoy!

 

Sunday, January 10, 2010

What is the Holy Day of Ashoura, and What Does it Have to Do With the December 27 Killings?

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Ashura 2009 burning

The fact that Iran’s recent riots took place on the Holy Day of Ashoura is extremely significant. This is a day on which Shi’a Muslims commemorate a centuries-old historical tragedy that continues to have political implications today.

Shortly after the 632 death of the Prophet Muhammad, a crisis of succession arose within the early community of Muslims. Some people believed that religious leadership should remain within the line of the Prophet’s descendents, specifically the line that flowed from the union of the Prophet’s daughter, Fatimah, and her husband Ali who was not only the Prophet’s son-in-law, but his cousin as well. These people became the Shi’a teh Ali, “Partisans of Ali,” or what we call the “Shi’a” today. Other early Muslims felt that the Caliphs -- the religious and political leaders of the Muslim community -- should be selected through a traditional political process. They became the Sunni branch of Islam and comprise about 85% or more of today’s Muslims .

As centuries passed, the Shi’a, especially those in Iran and Iraq, developed a system called the “Imamate.” These "Imams" were considered to have extraordinary (even esoteric/mystical) religious understanding due to the fact that they could trace their lineage to the Prophet Muhammad. (By the way, this also explains why Ayatollah Khomeini, leader of the 1979 Islamic Revolution against the Pahlavi regime, held such power over the Iranians; he was considered by many to be an Imam with special religious knowledge that went beyond that of the other religious leaders.)

In the year 680, this conflict over the Prophet's succession led to a tragedy in the desert of Karbala, in present day Iraq. Hossein, son of Ali and Fatimah, grandson of the Prophet Muhammad was slaughtered, along with a small band of followers, by the army of Yazid, Caliph of Damascus. Dramatic stories abound of the bravery of this group of men, women, and children, as well as the brutality of their attackers who are said to have shot an arrow through the neck of Hossein’s infant son when he was begging for water for the children who were dying of thirst. Eventually the heads of the Shi’a “martrys,” including that of Hossein, were delivered to Yazid in his palace. Yazid was immediately condemned as an impious, vicious oppressor.

When I lived in Iran during the 1978-79 Islamic Revolution, I saw how this Battle of Karbala served as a rallying point for the movement against the “New Yazid,” as the Shah, Muhammad Reza Pahlavi was called. Passion plays called “Ta’ziyeh” were presented throughout Iran during the Week of Ashura. During performances, long narratives were recited, calling people to lay down their lives for the sake of justice, piety, courage, and sacrifice. I went to a village Ta’ziyeh, conveniently covered myself in a black chador, and observed the re-enactment of killings, pleas for mercy, and funeral rites for those who had died centuries ago, but still, in the 20th century, continued to serve as inspiration for political and religious action in the name of Divine Justice.

Ironically, those same mullahs who encouraged the use of the Holy Day of Ashura as a rallying cry against the Shah are now listening to identical calls for justice from people on the streets. Protesters are using that exact same religious observance to protest the killings, executions and oppression by the current regime.

Sadly, the 35-year-old nephew of Mir Hossein Mousavi, the opposition leader who claims to have won the June presidential election, was one of the eight people killed in the December 27th riots at Tehran's Enghelab (Revolution) Square on the recent Day of Ashura.

Seems like the events I cover in my novel manuscript are playing out again. I see new actors, but the dialogue and the setting are the same. I guess we'll have to wait to see what the final act will look like.

Click here to see a video of a song that commemorates Fatimah, daughter of the Prophet Muhammad, wife of “Imam” Ali, mother of two Shi’a Imams, Hossein and Hassan. What you’re seeing is Iranian men beating their chests in sorrow, as they follow the song that relates the losses suffered by Fatimah.

Video of Iranian "Passion Play"

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With the recent killings in Iran on the Holy Day of Ashura, the Iranian government has ironically flamed the passions of the very same religious observance that Islamic revolutionaries used in their 1970's attacks on the Pahlavi Dynasty. When writing my novel manuscript, I turned to YouTube videos of these plays for inspiration. I have Sarah, the protagonist, attending several evenings of Ta'ziyah, or passion plays, toward the end of the novel, a point at which the Pahlavi Dynasty is reaching the end of its reign. I also drew upon my own observations--as the Shah's government became more threatened by the power of the religious authorities under the direction of Ayatollah Khomeini, the response to protests became more brutal, and the passion of the religious ceremonies became more intense. Below is a great video that shows how even the most amateurish productions (which I preferred to the slick, professional shows) can draw tears from the driest of eyes.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Dessert at the Yurt

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For years, the Muslims of Abiquiu, New Mexico have prayed and celebrated Islamic holidays in a Yurt.

These photos show the yurt from a distance, and some interior shots. The three little girls were sitting on the bench outside, waiting for food, food, food, one of the most popular aspects of any holiday gathering.

'Eid al-Adha, the end of the Hajj

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The holiday season is upon us, with Thanksgiving, 'Eid al Adah, Christmas, and the New Year. Blessings to all. Here is a link to some beautiful photos at "The Guardian" newspaper. I just couldn't believe this photo of the blond men at an Indonesian prayer.

Here in Abiquiu, we had a quiet prayer at the Dar al Islam mosque, slaughtered a lamb as did Muslims around the world, and enjoyed a beautiful autumn day with our friends and family.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Ramadan 2009: My Stomach is Not a Morning Person

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Isf Chahar Baqh Theo School Amy

A time of quiet. A time of reflection. And for those of us who don’t usually eat a big breakfast, a time for 14-hour stomach aches. But always peaceful. May God bring more peace to this world, less strife, less hubris, more grace. And of course, for all the world when they break the fast each evening, a good cup of tea.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Return to Iran: Journal Entry: Aug. 4, 2004: Sipping Away at the "Praise God Tea Shop"

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Isf Alum at Sq 1 When things go wrong, when you’re down, when you need a soothing drink, Iranians don’t open a beer bottle; they turn to the ultimate healer, tea. This is a picture of teachers who joined me for a 2004 tour of Iran. In the background is Isfahan’s famous plaza. Behind us on the right, you can see Ali Qapoo Palace from where kings used to watch polo games on the square. On the right is Shayk Lutfallah Mosque and in the center background is the world-famous Jum’a Mosque. But what was really fun was the teashop. The steps to the second-story patio are killers! Below is my journal entry for that day.

Had dinner at the restaurant with the multi-colored fountain again. The owner recognized me from last year. His prayer room is gone, but he’s building a small mosque right next to the restaurant. Afterward, went to the Praise God Teashop that overlooks the square. The steps are extremely (!) steep, and the stairway twists. You have to pull yourself up by the railing. Painted on the wall next to each step is one green letter: A-l-h-a-m-d-u-l-l-i-l-a-h! “Praise God!” Which is exactly how I felt when I reached the top. Whenever someone makes it to the top, the customers in the restaurant raise their glasses and cheer. Sense of humor is great here. Now, if we can just get back down again.

[Click on the above link to “Isfahan’s famous plaza” to get to Flikr. If you click on “ISFAHAN” to the right, you’ll have access to 192 stunning photos of a stunning city!]

Did my kid draw that?

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This is a picture that my son, Jason, drew when we lived in Iran during the Islamic Revolution of 1978-79. He was eight the time. Seems like the picture was drawn quickly. If you look closely, you’ll see that Jason drew himself into the scene. He’s peeking out a window. I recall putting laundry in his drawer, and coming across several pictures like this. (Now I’m paying close attention to what’s happening between the “Red Shirts” and the “Yellow Shirts” in Bangkok, where Jason lives with his wife and two children.) Enough to give a mother nightmares, but such is life.

Jason Drawing from Esfahan.Protesters Killed by RPG REDUCED

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Letter to Home: Tanks at every corner, August 14, 1978

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I took this photo of a boy playing amongst sandbags in Isfahan. Solders had set up checkpoints and mini-battle stations at street corners. The letter to home that you'79 sandbag kid BLOG see below mentions conditions that look eerily similar to what we’ve seen in the media following the recent presidential elections in Iran.

Greetings,

I just want to write, first of all, to let you know we’re okay. I don’t know how much of this chaos is being mentioned by the very “selective” US news media, but riots have broken out in Isfahan and marital law has been declared. There are tanks and armed guards at every corner or major intersection of the city. Banks have been burned, as well as nightclubs and hotels—banks because they’re owned by you-know-who (note: the Shah) and cinemas, nightclubs, etc, because they’re “immoral.”

An 8:00 pm till 6:00 am curfew has been enacted in Isfahan. Anyone out after 8:00 is either arrested or shot. Oddly enough, the reaction among the people is that they’re cooking huge meals and having picnics in their back yards, (which are all walled in, incidentally.) Each night you hear people singing, or watching t.v. or just goofing around. The curfew will last for one month, the reason being that this is the month of Ramadan, or religious fasting. During any religious observance, the natives get restless. But we’re just hanging around the house and reading, etc. We’re avoiding the mosques and bazaars because they are the center of the dissident movements.

Note: the first person to be shot in our neighborhood, the Jolfa section of Isfahan, was a sixteen-year-old boy who seemed to have simply forgotten about the curfew. The singing and relaxation didn’t last for long. Indeed, the biggest anti-Shah, pro-Khomeini march involved hundreds of thousands, and took place on the ‘Eid, the day that culminates Ramadan with prayers and a feast. While that march was peaceful, it served to raise the resistance to the Shah up another notch and set the revolution on a path of no return. By that time, people were ready to openly defy the injunction against marches, and risk their lives for political change. (Deja Vu anyone?)

About the reference to “you know who”: Making openly anti-Shah comments was risky, to say the least. Keep in mind that he was our ally, and had been reinstated to power by the CIA’s Operation Ajax after being ousted in 1953, so the American media was, at first, reluctant to admit that “our guy in the Middle East” was spinning out of control and using his army to gun down opposition to his rule.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Back from Taos Master Novel Workshop

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Wow, what a week! I’m home again and, as expected, it’s time to revise. Interestingly, the novel character whom my fellow participants liked the most was Rustam, the evil, yet tormented, SAVAK agent whose job is to ferret out anti-Shah, pro-Islamic revolutionary cells. The problem is that his own son, Darius, is in one of those cells. So as he’s trying to find “The Lions of the Revolution,” he’s also trying to make sure the other SAVAK agents don’t find them. In the meantime, Sarah, the American grad student is trying to write her thesis on the Ali tiles @ gas station BLOGrevolution without getting caught. Bubbling up in the background is, Ashura, a major religious holy day, and things are getting dicey.

Revision advice? More of Rustam, and more of Kayvan, a rather shallow jerk who spouts revolutionary slogans without a whole lot of conviction.

“Morning Joe”: Great commentary on the Middle East

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Feeling like the situation in Iran has faded to the backwaters of the media? Connect to Morning Joe, for some lively commentary. Particularly interesting is the discussion with former National Security Advisor, Zbignew Brzezinski:  “There are Two Irans.” His analysis is well-informed, interesting, and sure to be thought provoking. Little did I know this guy was so cool. Keep up with this website as these folks keep up with the world. And while I’m at it, check out The Iranian to see many-sided debates in which the Iranians themselves are participating. My daughter, Sepi, has attended numerous protests, but the one in Washington, DC this week-end was by far the largest in the U.S. “The Iranian” always has great photos to browse if you’re interested in seeing how people are maintaining the momentum of protest during this difficult time.

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Off to Taos Writers’ Workshop

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House June 04 # 12 for BLOGI’m headed to Taos, New Mexico for a week-long Master Novel Workshop. There are only six participants, so I’m looking forward to the intensive focus on my novel manuscript, “In the Shadow of the Tombs.” I also look forward to working with a great novelist, and, as I’ve heard, a great teacher, Mr. John Dufresne. Time for mountain vistas, rivers, pueblos, and chili ristras. Oh, sounds like my home town of Abiquiu. There’s no place like home, Dorothy.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Letter to Home: We’ve arrived, August 9, 1978

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Jason school photo US reduced BLOG

This is my son, Jason, whom I took to Iran when he was eight. He is my model for the character of “Jacob” in my novel manuscript, “In the Shadow of the Tombs.” Jason has a real gift for picking up languages, which comes out in my letter, excerpted below. He’s a teacher in Bangkok now, and acted in a movie in which he spoke only Thai. (Played the part of a dumb foreigner, and had a blast with the humor.)

Mom and Dad,

We couldn’t get tickets to Isfahan for three days, so we had a very pleasant stay at the home of Ali’s uncle and aunt. We took Jason on a tour of Tehran. Saw the Peacock Throne, made of diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and gold. Saw a palace and a museum with objects that date back to 2500 BC. Jason seems to like this place a lot. (We even found a restaurant with pizza here.) He met a five-year-old boy in Tehran and had supper at his house, which is next to the home of Ali’s uncle. He also has a friend here in Isfahan.We’re staying at Ali’s mom’s house, and the cook has a ten-year-old boy. He and Jase have played soccer every day. The boy’s name is Hodabaksh, which means Gift from God. He speaks absolutely no English and they play together well. We took them to the bazaar and bought Jason a notebook because he wanted to write down all the words he knows in Farsi. He has filled up eight pages already. We’re taking Jason to his school tomorrow to enroll him.

Note: Unfortunately, when we picked him up after his first day at school, he was unusually quiet. The only information we got out of him was what game the kids played at recess: “Kick the Horejee,” he replied. Kick the Foreigner. Shortly afterward, that stopped and Jason made some great friends, but we lost contact with them once we returned to the US.

 
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